EPILOGUE

“You’ll have to fall in love at least once in your life, or Paris has failed to rub off on you.” –E.A. Bucchianeri

It’s been twenty-seven days since my last post, and so much has changed since I said au revoir to life in Paris.  A whirlwind three days searching for an apartment in New York ended in frustration and futile regret at having left my comfortable home in beautiful Paris.  But a little time with family in the Carolinas reminded me of the many reasons I was ready to leave France, and the support of those close to me renewed my energy to return to New York with newfound enthusiasm and courage.

After two weeks traveling the Southeast, I’m now busy in the throws of my job search in New York––hence my absence from Les Derniers Jours.  My silence has also been a result of my conflicted feelings about this new chapter, and life post-Paris.  So far, New York has been an exciting change from the city I had come to know so well.  Everything is new here, so walking the lively city streets is stimulating, and each new discovery is fascinating.  Yet my unfamiliarity with the city generates a sense of discomfort and uncertainty.  I miss knowing the metro map by heart, greeting the familiar faces in my neighborhood, frequenting my favorite cafés, that sense of home that I had finally achieved in Paris.  While I know that learning a city takes time––and that one day I, too, will become a know-it-all New Yorker––I can’t help but feel like a fish out of water during these first few weeks in this immense and challenging new place.

On the other hand, it has been exhilarating knowing that I can recreate my life and build an entirely new career, seizing the chance to prove myself in a new industry.  At moments, the anxiety and uncertainty of the search can be overwhelming, but mostly I’m thrilled at the opportunity to break out of the confining red tape of visa regulations and do something I actually enjoy!  I’m seeking a role that will challenge me to leverage my creativity, require a talent for interpersonal and written communication, and rely on my resourceful problem-solving skills.  So far, my search has led me to opportunities in Marketing, Communications, and Publishing, working with companies focused on art, fashion, culture, and/or cuisine.  I’m excited to see what opportunities my labors will produce … stay tuned for future updates!

Until I’ve completed my final posts about Paris, I’m not quite ready to draw this project to a close.  Two more restaurants and a trendy boutique still await reviews, and I have a long list of planned discoveries for my future visits (the next of which will hopefully be in late January).  So in anticipation of future entries, I’ll leave you readers with this sentiment, shared with me by my grandmother before my initial journey to Paris to study in 2008.

“Paris has something for everyone, but everything for someone.” –Mary Jane Board

I am certain, that as it was for her, Paris has been and will always be everything to me.

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A few pictures taken my last day strolling the streets of Paris.

LE HAUT DE SACRÉ COEUR

“I never rebel so much against France as not to regard Paris with a friendly eye; she has had my heart since my childhood…. I love her tenderly, even to her warts and her spots. I am French only by this great city: the glory of France, and one of the noblest ornaments of the world.” –Michel de Montaigne

A grand declaration of love for a wonderful city.  I’m amazed that it’s finally here, my last full day in Paris.  I’m off to run a few quick errands, take a stroll near St. Germain des Près, visit the Musée d’Orsay one last time, and then say goodbye to friends over dinner at a favorite restaurant.  But first, a quick review of adventures still untold…

Before my trip to Provence, my friend Lisa and I hiked to the top of the Sacré Coeur church in Montmartre, where I’d heard (from tourists) we could find an amazing view of Paris from its highest topographical point.  Three-hundred-and-fifty steps later, we reached the pinnacle of the grand white church, and enjoyed a spectacular 360 degree view of the city.  From here, we could see all of Paris from a northern perspective–in contrast to other views I’ve taken in, everything seemed so far away and tiny.  I was amazed by the vast expansiveness of the city and its banlieus, particularly evident from this vantage point.  However, I would argue that more central overlooks give a far more beautiful picture of Paris.  Notre Dame’s centrality on the River Seine, or the Arc de Triomphe’s proximity to the Eiffel Tower and view of the Étoile intersection–these views were far more beautiful and impressive.  Nevertheless, another achievement in conquering Paris!

After the climb down, we enjoyed a well deserved glass of wine at a little brasserie near Abbesses, then strolled through Montmartre for a last goodbye to the quartier.  Now I’m off to bid au revoir to Paris… Wish me luck!

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LES MAUVAIS GARÇONS

“That Paris exists and anyone could choose to live anywhere else in the world will always be a mystery to me.” –Adriana, Midnight in Paris

Before heading down to Cassis, I enjoyed an afternoon in the Marais with my Lyonnaise friend, Lisa.  Born and raised in Lyon, one of France’s largest cities and the world capital of gastronomy, Lisa often reminisces about her twenty-some-odd years there before settling in Paris.  That particular day, we were talking about Lyon’s unique culinary traditions, which differentiate the Rhône-Alpes capital’s bouchons from typical Parisian restaurants.  Having visited Lyon many times, I also have developed a love for Lisa’s hometown specialties.  Inspired to find a typical bouchon-style meal, we asked around the neighborhood, and ended up at Les Mauvais Garçons.

Les Mauvais Garçons, or ‘The Bad Boys’, is a quaint little restaurant near Hôtel de Ville that serves delicious and authentic specialties from the Lyon area, with friendly service and comfy ambiance to boot.  Riad Fenniche, the owner and chef of Les Mauvais Garçons (as well as our server that day), originally hails from Lyon.  He moved to Paris several years ago with an idea to bring real Lyonnais cooking to the country’s capital.  The young chef had learned all about bouchon fare while helping out at his father’s traditional bouchon in Lyon.  Desiring a new life in Paris, but not willing to live without Lyonnais specialties, he brought his own culture to the City of Lights.

According to Lisa, a true Lyonnaise herself, the restaurant serves certifiably authentic cuisine.  We sampled the oeufs en meurette au fois gras, a delicious starter of poached eggs, toast, and fois gras, drowning in a mushroom-wine sauce.  For the main course, we both ordered the quenelle de brochet, an indescribable creamy, baked polenta of sorts, stuffed with flaky white fish, floating in a bath of ‘Nantua’ sauce–a cross between béchamel, rosa, and shrimp sauces.  The ‘Nantua’ sauce brought out the fish’s flavor beautifully, and the quenelle was creamy on the inside with a crispy, baked exterior.  A heavenly and hearty midday meal!  We finished with a tarte aux pralines roses, with a sweet and buttery pink center in a flaky pastry crust.  This was Lisa’s only objection–she swore her own tarte aux pralines roses is better!  Having never tried the dessert before, I loved it regardless.  After this delicious meal, I would strongly encourage a visit to Les Mauvais Garçons if you’re looking to experience authentic Lyonnais cuisine right in the heart of Paris.

Which brings me back to the quote of the day–when you live in a beautiful city with everything you could dream off accessible at your fingertips, why would anyone want to live anywhere else?  Luckily, New York shares many of Paris’s best characteristics.  And though I’m looking forward to this new chapter, I can’t help but want to relive the current one!  Three more days… J’en profite !

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LES VRAIS DERNIERS JOURS

“Though I often looked for one, I finally had to admit that there could be no cure for Paris.” –Ernest Hemingway, The Moveable Feast

After a relaxing last vacation in Cassis, a small beach town on the Mediterranean coast of Provence, I’m back in Paris and eager to make the most of my last four days here! And TO continue Les Derniers Jours where we left off!

Posts to come tomorrow about Les Mauvais Garçons, a delicious and authentic Lyonnais restaurant in the Marais district, and my hike to the top of the dome of Sacré Coeur in Montmartre–to catch up on pre-vacation explorations. Then onto my final adventures before the big move on Wednesday, so stay tuned!

PARIS PLAGES

“You can’t escape the past in Paris, and yet what’s so wonderful about it is that the past and present intermingle so intangibly that it doesn’t seem to burden.” –Allen Ginsberg

This quote came to mind the other day while I was enjoying a picnic on the Seine with a friend, soaking up some sun at the temporary beaches installed each summer in Paris.  There we were, perched in a sandy spot right next to Pont au Change, with a view of some of the oldest sites in Paris: the Conciergerie, St Chapelle, Notre Dame, Pont Neuf…  The architecture that then surrounded us dates back to the Middle Ages–and meanwhile, we were casually enjoying our take-out sandwiches and Coca-Colas, listening to Top 40 dance hits courtesy of the Paris Plages DJ, and discussing our everyday modern frustrations, like annoying cell phone service providers.

Growing up in the United States, my environment was almost entirely made up of the new and modern–and where one could find buildings constructed during the antebellum era, or artifacts from centuries ago, they were places worthy of planned visits and guided tours.  Living here, it seems that I’m constantly surrounded by the ancient, and after the initial awe and excitement of the tourism phase, it has just become the normal backdrop for everyday life.  This certainly provides a beautiful historic context to everyday chores and errands, and it’s something I’ll surely miss when again surrounded by modern architecture.

As for Paris Plages, I hadn’t ever visited the manmade beaches before, expecting them to attract lots of tourists and obnoxious teenage boys–no doubt hoping to get a glimpse of girls in their bikinis.  But given that I’ve been trying to check all the sites off my list, I agreed to stop by for a picnic.  The beaches were actually much cleaner and more family friendly than I had expected, and on a Monday afternoon, we had plenty of space to spread out and relax.  The food stands, music, and fountains made for a fun, boardwalk sort of environment, oddly reminiscent of my childhood afternoons at Virginia Beach or Garden City!  What’s more, I’ve heard there are evening concerts, aquatic aerobics classes, and restaurant events on the beaches as well.  I would definitely recommend a weekday visit to anyone in Paris during late July or early August, as Paris Plages was a fun afternoon escape from the hustle and bustle of the city!

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http://www.paris.fr/parisplages

SPRING

“Whoever does not visit Paris regularly will never really be elegant.” –Honoré de Balzac

A quote about elegance to introduce a very elegant meal.  Last Wednesday, I had the pleasure of dining at the hot Parisian restaurant, Spring.  A contemporary-classic French bistro on a charming cobblestone street near the Louvre, Spring combines the best of modern haute cuisine with classic French ingredients and techniques.  The fixed menu changes daily, as chef Daniel Rose scouts out fresh produce and proteins to craft a sequence of delicious dishes, highlighting seasonal specialties.

As you may have guessed by his name, Rose is not your average French chef.  In fact, he grew up in Illinois, just outside of Chicago.  Like myself, he traveled to France in his twenties and fell in love with Paris.  Feeling compelled to stay, Rose signed up for cooking school, simply to finagle a visa!  After years of studying and working in kitchens spanning the globe–from France, to the United States, to Guatemala–he settled in Paris to open his original French restaurant, Spring.  The dynamic young chef and his intimate Parisian restaurant have drawn a following from both sides of the Atlantic, and is frequented by bourgeois Parisians, American expats, and international foodies alike.

I have been dying to go since Spring’s opening, having read countless rave reviews, and was so excited to get a reservation before my departure.  We arrived and were seated downstairs in the charming wine cellar, at a cozy table under vaulted arches.  The interior perfectly reflects Rose’s point of view–authentic French architecture meets clean, modern design.  Our charming servers and knowledgable sommelier guided us towards our wine choices, while maintaining the menu’s element of surprise.  We went with a custom course pairing menu–exceptionally excellent–and then waited for the culinary adventures to begin!

Our exquisite meal began with an amuse-bouche trifecta, including a light melon and cucumber salad, tiny fingerling potatoes wrapped in delicious proscuitto, and a trout caviar cream with fresh baguette.  A great start to a fantastic menu, washed down with a bubbly glass of Champagne.  Next up was a surprising trio of eggplant dishes, accompanying a delicious filet of red mullet and a glass of white Bourgogne.  We were astonished by the drastically different qualities of each eggplant creation, and how they all worked in harmony to bring out the delicate flavor of the fish.  Our next course was simply heavenly–two sweet sautéed langoustines on a bed of crisp roasted summer vegetables, drowned in a refined white gazpacho with a touch of langoustine cream–indescribably delicious!  A memorable and mouthwatering conclusion to the first half of our meal, served with another beautifully paired white wine.

Though I could have gone home happy after those first three courses, there was still more delectable cuisine to come.  Our main course included two of my absolute favorite foods in harmony: canette, or tender female duck, was roasted and paired with a superb sauté of peaches in a delicate jus.  Paired with a light red, this plate was a perfect compliment the preceding plates.  After the main course, we enjoyed a savory selection of French cheeses, including a creamy fresh chèvre, a salty Comté, and a tangy Bleu d’Auvergne–each more palatable than the last.  Finally, a trio of sweet creations constituted the dessert course: a light meringue over a sort of blueberry crumble, a lemon cream mousse topped with dark chocolate shavings, and a delicious chocolate and cassis concoction (of which I have blurred but pleasant memories, due to the numerous glasses of wine no doubt).  We enjoyed a final glass of dessert wine with a touch of cognac–a luscious end to a divine and memorable meal.

While wine and dinner at Spring will cost you a pretty penny, this restaurant is truly not to be missed.  I’ve certainly eaten my fair share of unforgettable meals in Paris, but the flawless execution of these classic French dishes, the creativity of pairings and displays, and the perfect balance of delicate and bold flavors made this dinner a true standout over my three years of gourmandise.  An incredible experience for our last big date night in Paris, our dinner at Spring certainly won’t be forgotten!

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http://www.springparis.fr/

A WEEK IN REVIEW

Dear readers,

Once again, despite the best of intentions, I have failed to report back regularly about the events and discoveries of the past ten days.  Amidst numerous emotional goodbyes, a busy last week of work, and efforts to cram in as many adventures as possible after hours, I’ve let my writing fall to the wayside… But after a wild weekend trip Germany, I’m back in the city, refreshed and excited to return to Les Derniers Jours.

Before I begin to review the week’s adventures, I’ll share an overview of the past several days, with a few quotes to elaborate on my coinciding experiences of Paris:

Friday, July 20:

Drinks at La Droguerie Moderne, a bar in the Parmentier/Oberkampf area of the 11th arrondissement, followed by a long night out at Le Globo, a club near Strasbourg St Denis.  A fabulous celebration of a close friend’s birthday, and a perfect way to commemorate our last soirée Parisienne.

“Oh, it was so hard to leave Paris, just about my favorite city in the world.” –Tony Visconti

Monday, July 23:

A picnic at Paris Plages, the “beach” created along the quais of the Seine during late July and early August, to give city-dwellers a place to escape and relax.  We found a nice sandy spot between Pont au Change and Pont Henri IV, and enjoyed the sunshine and pretty view of the Seine.

“Paris is always a good idea.” –Audrey Hepburn

Tuesday, July 24:

An uneventful evening after a long day at work–just a contemplative stroll along the canal and a quiet dinner at home.

“I guess it goes to show that you just never know where life will take you.  You search for answers.  You wonder what it all means.  You stumble, and you soar.  And, if you’re lucky, you make it to Paris for a while.” –Amy Thomas

Wednesday, July 25:

An incredible dinner date at Spring, a contemporary French restaurant on an ancient, winding little street near the Musée du Louvre, offering incredible fresh and creative cuisine.  Elaboration to come…

“But Paris was a very old city and we were young and nothing was simple there, not even poverty, nor sudden money, nor the moonlight, nor right and wrong nor the breathing of someone who lay beside you in the moonlight.” –Ernest Hemingway

Thursday, July 26:

Beer tasting at La Cave des Bulles near Centre Pompidou, followed by a light dinner by the Beaubourg fountain at Chez Dame Tartine.  A little too much beer, wine, stress, and fatigue led to a tumultuous end to the evening (easily resolved with a little perspective).

“Quarrels in France strengthen a love affair, in America they end it.” –Ned Rorem

Friday, July 28:

A long last day of work and a rush to make it to the train station in time for a trip to Freiburg, Germany–with a few cherished minutes to enjoy a relaxing midday stroll in the park, Bois de Boulogne.

“There is but one Paris and however hard living may be here, and if it became worse and harder even—the French air clears up the brain and does good—a world of good.” –Vincent Van Gogh

So here you have the gist of what I’ve been up to during time lost, but look for more details about Paris Plage, Spring, La Cave des Bulles, etc over the coming days.  Plus new adventures by the end of the week!  Making the most of mes derniers jours …

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